By Dave McKibben
When I approached the tee on the par-3 third hole at the Sea Ranch Links, I was still hot from back-to-back three-putt bogeys. But while contemplating whether to hit a 5-iron or hybrid into the 200-yard tree lined-hole, I noticed there was a group that hadn’t cleared the green–two black-tailed deer chewing on grass and not the least bit concerned about my 2-over par start.
Naturally, I began to unwind, find my game and my putting stroke on this serene 6,649-yard course in the middle of nowhere, three hours along a twisting and precarious coastal road 1 from San Francisco and two hours from the nearest airport in Santa Rosa. The former sheep ranch was designed by Robert Muir Graves, opening as a nine-hole course in 1974 and expanding to 18 holes in 1995.
Through the sprawling meadows, rolling hills and redwoods, there are glimpses of the ocean from every hole, not even Torrey Pines and Pebble Beach can say that. None of the holes fall directly along the water, but the par-3 eighth offers magical photo opportunities with a to-die-for ocean view from a tiered bluff-top green.
The course is part of the 7,000-acre Sea Ranch community that occupies a craggy 10-mile stretch of northern Sonoma County, encompassing over 2,000 private homes and the elegant Sea Ranch Lodge. Founded in the 1960s, Sea Ranch was created by groups of architects and planners as a place where people could live in harmony with the natural elements, essentially the opposite of cookie-cutter, gated communities that had been springing up along the Northern California coast. The Sea Ranch motto, “living lightly on the land” is felt everywhere.
New owners of the Sea Ranch Lodge recently finished a multi-year, multi-million-dollar renovation of the dining room, bar and lounge, café, general store, post office and significant upgrades to its 17 guest rooms. The rough and tumble links-style golf course with its shaggy greens is in the middle of its own restoration project. Nearly abandoned by Sea Ranch’s previous owners, the links style course remains a bit rough around the edges in spots, but Adam Brooks, clubhouse manager at Sea Ranch, said “the course has come a long way in the last year and a half.”
He added: “The fairways last year at this time were completely browned out. This course was basically rescued. People are really seeing the improvements. We’re soon going to punch the fairways for the first time in 25 years.”
Kristina Jetton, general manager of the Sea Ranch Lodge, said the new owners are pouring thousands into upgrading the course.
“We have a commitment to our ownership to do this in a very responsible way,” Jetton said. “We also want to honor the original design and the intent behind it, so we don’t want to make these massive changes.”
The routing on the front nine is straight-forward and wide-open, allowing golfers to bomb drivers on most holes. But the back nine is quirky and more challenging with blind shots, narrow fairways, and surprise ravines. “On most of the back nine, you’re hitting hybrids on long par 4s to break up the holes,” Brooks said.
Much like a professor offering students a study guide before a quiz, Brooks offers course guides to golfers the night before their round: “We tell them to take it home and read it, it’s really going to help.”
But even if golfers struggle to keep their ball in play and break 90, there’s little reason to grumble after walking off the 18th hole. Nothing beats a peaceful, 3-hour round of golf in the wilderness for $80 ($60 on weekdays) with friendly families of deer and the occasional fox serving as your gallery and a locally brewed IPA and barbecue-brisket sandwich on the clubhouse patio after the round.
IF YOU GO
Stay
Guest rooms feature breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. Deluxe studio rooms offer a quieter escape into nature. Guests searching for multi-bedrooms can stay in a college of private rental homes designed by esteemed Sea Ranch architects.
The Sea Ranch Lodge: www.thesearanchlodge.com
Play
Eat and Drink
Executive chef Eric Piacentine brings a new iteration of “rugged refined dining” to Sea Ranch with elevated contemporary coastal cuisine complimented by stunning panoramic view of the ocean and open meadows. It’s hard to go wrong ordering fresh seafood. The baked salmon with broccoli, asparagus and mashed potatoes in a heavy cream sauce is a must for dinner and the grilled cheese/tomato bisque combo hit the spot after a long drive from the airport. The highlight of the bar’s offering was the renowned Pliny The Elder IPA from Russian River Brewing on draft.
