Golf d’Étretat: Fairway to France

By David R. Holland

ÉTRETAT, FRANCE – Located on the Côte d’Albâtre aka Alabaster Coast, Golf d’Étretat is one of the most spectacular visual courses in France. This panorama of rugged white chalk cliffs could be the most heavily visited vista in Normandy, popular with hikers as well as golfers.

“Outstanding! There is so much to love about this golf course. Much is down to Mother Nature and the stunning scenery you are able to drink in along the Normandy cliffs,” said Rich Neasom.

“But there is much more to like…the relatively new clubhouse complex is excellent. The restaurant bar and dining area offers views of the 18th green and out to the English Channel. The food experience is top end quality at reasonable prices, and the changing areas are modern and spacious.”

Rich History

The course’s rich history includes a remarkable post-war recovery. After suffering bombing damage during World War II, it was unable to reopen until 1949 because of Nazi landmines scattered across the grounds.

The club was founded in 1908 by British golfers and boasts notable figures like Bernard Forbes, the eighth Earl of Granard, as its first president. The original course was designed by Julien Chantepie and Arnaud Massy, the only French winner of The Open Championship, who later retired in Étretat.

After the First World War, the Société Foncière du Casino initiated significant improvements to Étretat’s golf course and tennis club to draw in more visitors. This push for tourism was supported by the booming rail and road transport, which cut the travel time from Paris to just four hours. 

During this period, a new clubhouse was built overlooking the current Dormy House Hotel (and the old one was simply razed), the course extended to 18 holes and car access was created on the Havre road side. After the bankruptcy of the Foncière, and with the financial support of Mr. Dubosc, the Étretat Golf Sports Association took over in 1937, under the leadership of Jacques Compère and a few old hands, Albert Mouchet and Maxime.

The 1939-45 war could have signaled the end of the golf course, as its facilities were ransacked and the grounds mined. Compère managed to obtain war reparations and even the labor of prisoners of war to carry out the demining.

When the clubhouse reopened in 1949, it welcomed members from Le Havre, which at the time had no golf course of its own. In 1958, when Mr. Dubosc, the club’s dedicated treasurer, left the region, members came together to help finance the purchase of the land.

The acquisition was made more affordable thanks to the town of Étretat, which secured the property in exchange for a long-term lease. This agreement, along with the association’s ongoing commitment to maintaining and developing the club, has remained steadfast ever since.

Redesigned in 1992, the course now spans a walk of 3.7 miles and offers diverse play with bunkers and wetlands. The golf club is associated with Hockley Golf Club in Winchester, continuing the cross-English Channel partnership that inspired its founding. It remains a living testament to Étretat’s golden age.

Toughest challenge to your golf game?

That would be the wind. It was howling the day I played, but playing a ground game was helpful.

The 10th is a notoriously difficult par-5 and is widely regarded as the course’s signature hole. After a downhill tee shot which tends to run off into the rough, golfers must navigate a long, demanding uphill shot. One must battle the wind and steer clear of the public footpath that runs along the cliff’s edge.

Its reputation for humbling even the best players is legendary, and players have been known to lose an abundance of balls in the process.

And finally, after golf, you can discover the city center and the promenade “Perrey” where many artists found their inspiration in this exceptional landscape: Maurice Blanc and his character Arsène Lupine, Guy de Maupassant, the composer Offenbach, or the painters Corot, Boudin and Monet.

Hordes of Americans come to Normandy each year to delve into the history of June 6, 1944. For veterans it is a must visit in your lifetime. Why not play some scenic golf during your visit?

Golf dÉtretat is worth the detour.

Where to Stay 

I really lucked out when I found Le coin des Aromates, an independent B&B guest house owned by a golfer, Delphine Gillot. This peaceful, relaxing one-acre treasure is located adjacent to Golf du Havre and opened in 2018 with a classic room and two suites.

The breakfast?  It was so good. “We are committed to offering you local products:  Octeville breads, cheeses, ham and eggs of your choice plus homemade breakfast cakes and jams, fruit salad or compote to accompany your drinks,” she says.

She can also help schedule your golf. For me it was a short drive to Golf dÉtretat and Battlefield Golf Course is also nearby. “Étretat is exceptional and everyone loves the remarkable coastal views. It is designed at the top of the cliffs of the Alabaster coast, which is in the process of being labeled a Grand Site of France,” Delphine said.

Looking for an extended travel golf vacation? She can also advise you on renowned golf courses such as the Amirauté, St-Julien, Champ-de-Bataille, St-Saëns, Albâtre, and Dieppe.